Sunday, 9 April 2023

Tokyo 2022 (Part 9~Soup and Sake~)

Decided that this will be the final Part of my Tokyo 2022 saga. I surprisingly haven't gotten sian of documenting what is now an old trip, but gotta wrap up coz of practical reasons (next adventure coming soon - in about 24h!). More importantly, I think what I wanted to cover here would be worthy of an ending. 

Solo trips are great since I value personal freedom a lot. Literally can do whatever I want and move at my preferred pace. (This doesn't mean I don't enjoy going on trips with people haha.) But anyway, I'm rarely alone for the entirety of my solos since I've almost always had some fate to meet friends overseas, whether new or existing. All these planned or semi-planned or completely impromptu meetups also rank very high on the list of things I deeply enjoy while travelling. Amidst the abundance of me-time, there's something about having a familiar/similar person to chitchat with over a meal in a foreign country. It's like a special activity! 

In Tokyo, on top of my very fulfilling itinerary, I got to spend quality time with 2 friends. That's what truly made it feel like a trip of good fate for me.

The first friend was M, the fellow SG ELF who also attended Utage, with whom I had dinner on both concert nights. We might not have known each other for very long before that but seems like a group of Korean guys is a very effective social glue hahaha. So of course we spent a great time squealing about the concert and the wider world of SJ, but there were other things too. Turns out we were both involved in fighting the same huge fire called covid, just at different fronts. Everyone had to adapt to varying degrees, but it was something else to do work totally born out of the mess. The key sentiment was that while we would never want to go through 2021 again, having this sort of work experience in our youth was something to be glad about. 

I learnt from her to pay more attention to recent reviews when looking for good food. But both our meals turned out to be at randomly chosen restaurants which turned out to be quite nice:

This was back in Tokyo on 2 Nov where everywhere was crowded though it was getting late. The waiter went into some explanation of the various components on the tray which I unfortunately can't remember, but the most memorable one was the cold milky cucumber soup at the top right. Sounds strange but it wasn't bad to me!

On the 3 Nov, we decided it might make more sense to find food in Tachikawa before going back, and stumbled into an izakaya after a sushi restaurant we were aiming for turned out to be closed (despite being "open" on google maps). Looking at the mismatched stuff in the photo, I clearly chose things that appealed to me the most on that cold night haha: hot tofu soup, sashimi and a highball. Btw, this meal cost all of S$20.

As for the second friend, it was someone from my uni days whom I hadn't seen in years. But first imma share one bit of background that I'd been waiting for a proper place to cover. My original travel buddies (aunt+uncle) couldn't come since aunt was struck by covid right before they were due to fly. This led to the huge blank at the end of my itinerary since my plan was literally to follow them around xD. The misfortune really >.< There was just one precious day of overlap in our itineraries, which itself only came about after I had to delay my return flight by one day. In short, covid was a hell of a troublemaker.

But at least for me, fate wasn't done working yet. There was still time to think of something to fill the gap. So I proceeded with the rest of my plans and was so awed on the first day that I even bothered to post some instastories. I received a particularly unexpected reply - an "ohmo welcome to Tokyo" from S, who was happily available on my blank day for a meetup! 

The plan was at first just Japanese desserts (something I also wanted to eat) in the mid-afternoon. But along the way, I asked a simple but important question: "do you drink sake?". No desserts alone could've sustained an almost 5h catchup, which could've gone on even longer if she didn't already have dinner plans that night. Just writing this brings a smile to my face :)

On 5 Nov, we met up at the basement of a Roxy Square-like building for desserts. It took some hard searching before I located the shop and joined the little queue filled with little old women (seemed like a good sign haha).

Was quite intrigued by the mask of a smiling woman above the traditional entrance.

S had an ohagi/oden set (which would prob have been a full lunch for me) and explained that ohagi was like a reverse daifuku haha. After being torn between everything that looked good, I selected a bowl of mixed shirafuku and jellies.

After desserts, we moved to another building nearby in search of a bookmarked izakaya... which turned out to be closed. Tokyo was so generally on top or over the top of things (like how their google maps directions even recommend the most convenient train doors to use) that it was surprising how this didn't apply to simple shop opening hours. So that was a bummer, but at least there were a few other choices nearby. We ended up in an izakaya specialising in miso-flavoured food (coz it seemed interesting - a running theme of that meetup) and there began one of my favourite parts of the trip. 

Thought to start off by listing the names of the drinks we had, just to illustrate a point:

  1. 天使誘惑 (Temptation of the Angels) - A highball, since it was recommended to start light and I went for the coolest name on the page (rather than the usual hakushu, chita, yamazaki).
  2. 生日本酒 (literally Raw Japanese Alcohol, but at first there was me and my brain wondering what was "birthday 本酒" xD)
  3. 香 (Scent of Flowers) 
  4. 九頭龍 (Nine-headed Dragon)
  5. 飛露喜 (Gleefulness) - At least that's how papago translated it. We read it as "flying dew happiness" back then haha. It was between this and 冬花火 (Winter Fireworks) which sounded cool in its own right, but I decided I preferred a name with "flying" and "happiness" in it ^^
Cool names right? This was my first izakaya experience, and I was pretty awestruck by the huge variety of sake and other drinks available. Since I could (semi-)read the chinese characters, it opened up another fun dimension in the drink selection process. In fact, this was the tie-breaking method between drinks of similar flavour profile. It was so so much fun and we laughed so much along the way xD

But first, S took this noob through the basics of sake-drinking and the info on the menu other than the intriguing names. We ordered sake in a measurement called "go" (about 180ml). Every order was one "go" and came either in a sort of funky bowl for cold ones or the more recognisable sake flask for hot ones. Each large bottle of sake was about 4 "go"s and the emptied bottles were lined up in a beautiful rainbow around the shop (unfortunately I have no picture, was enjoying myself too much to bother). As for the menu, the key info to observe included the distillery name, pure/processed rice percentage and most importantly, the flavour profile. Each bottled sake was profiled based on a light(軽い)-strong(重い), sweet(甘い)-dry(辛い) quadrant with hot/cold variants.

Taste-wise, we covered the profiles rather evenly. Unfortunately, since some time has passed, I can't really describe the different flavours in detail any more. But what I definitely remember was that each drink fell in line nicely one after the other, all of them were great in their own way, and the final sake (strong, dry, cold) was the perfect ending. 

Oh yes, and for almost every sake, we were offered a selection of sake cups to choose from and every one was different! It was just one drinking session honestly, but there were so many different things in it that sparked fun and joy. So here's some photos and more details:

1. 天使誘惑 (Temptation of the Angels), the shochu-based highball I started with, in contrast to the usual whisky-based ones. As highballs are, it was light and refreshing. 

2. 生日本酒, a raw sake. This was something unique that I didn't mind trying before moving into the more "crafted" sakes. What I can remember was that it tasted fresh and somewhat "bright", really like something pure. 

3. 花香 (Scent of Flowers). Yikes, I was probably enjoying myself too much and didn't take a photo of the actual drink. But luckily I got the menu page. The "希少日本酒" at the top literally means rare sake, so better order something from this section haha. Anyway as a light, sweet drink (sorta befitting its name) served cold, it was very easy to go down and would prob be a safe choice for exploratory drinkers.

4. 九頭龍 (Nine-headed Dragon), the only drink we ordered hot. Nothing to do with the dragon (cool as it was!), it was just the next sampling profile. IIRC, this sake was recommended by S but she hadn't tried it hot before, and so we did. The combi of strong, dry, hot made for a more mature kinda drink. I was using a metal cup just before this and swapped out to an inverse Mount Fuji to avoid burning my fingers haha. 

5. 飛露喜 (Gleefulness aka our Flying Dew Happiness). Ahh the grand finale and IIRC, my favourite one. This was also a strong, dry sake but served cold instead. Since we could compare with the immediate preceding drink, I kinda remember that the sake felt both richer and easier to go down when cold. All in all, a very satisfying way to cap off the meetup.

I wasn't expecting to go through a highball and 4 types of sake in one sitting hahaha (still way below my limits anyway). But sake is truly the perfect drink for sampling over an afternoon catch up! Don't like wine enough, and beer is too filling to sample that many types of.

It wasn't all drinks of course heh, we had some bites and a wide range of conversation topics to go along with it. I got a sumptuous download on Japan-living, from corporate culture to the transport system to general Japanese civic mindedness. One thing I definitely didn't know before that was that every transfer between rail lines owned by competing companies constitutes a new trip (no distance-based charging) D: On one hand it's amazing that all these competitors managed to fit their lines around each other and pack into a tight, interconnective system... But no wonder it took me more than S$100 just to getting around on public transport over those few days. The other thing was about hierarchy and after-work drinking culture (which seems to be a v East Asian thing). In fact, there happened to be a corporate drinking session going on at another table and it was rather rowdy haha. Before the trip, I'd always pictured the Japanese as a very quiet and civilised people but between this group and the hordes of kids I met along the way, I could see how they let loose at times xD.

These were the nibbles we had throughout the afternoon, very prettily plated. It's not necessary for me to eat while drinking but I couldn't stop picking at these haha. Wanted to point out the left-most one. The three coloured splotches at the bottom left corner of the plate were different types of miso pastes with different strengths.

At the time, it happened to be within the last month of S's stay in Tokyo before she moved to another city for work. So wow, it was a close shave. I was quite keen on sampling sake on the trip but would've been extremely lost without a Japanese-speaking companion. See the whole menu was in Japanese... my low level of recognising chinese words could only get me so far and image-translation didn't work very well in general. Therefore, I genuinely have S to thank for reaching out over insta, and bringing me on one of the single most enjoyable experiences on all my travels so far. 

After that, I went back to Odaiba to catch the night views upon S's recommendation (throwback to Part 1!). A contrast to the beginning of the trip, and a fitting end.

++++++++++

Well, we've come to the finale after lots of blogging over 9 Parts xD I think everything worth sharing has been shared, so it's time to round up. I definitely did most of what I planned to, save for some changes here and there in the itinerary in favour of greater experiences, and enjoyed everything immensely. 

On this trip, nothing felt unreasonably expensive (prob thanks to the great exchange rate!). And after all that running around and buying whatever caught my fancy, I was surprised to see that I spent less than projected, so that was a bonus! I also enjoyed every single meal, whether out in restaurants or back alone at my hotel table (dabao-ed/conbini food). My only small regret was not getting a chance to eat a proper cold soba (my favourite Japanese food). I ran out of time/meals and thought I'd be able to find it at the airport. Alas :') Well, there's still the rest of Japan for future trips, but I feel like I'll be back in Tokyo at some point, one way or another. 

For good measure, since this final Part is almost a food post xD These were my hotel table meals. Half were breakfasts before starting the day, and the others were dinners after exhausting myself in the vibrancy of Tokyo. Even if it was conbini food, I never saw it as a "last resort" to dabao back and eat quietly, more of a comfortable option. It was more important that all the food tasted good anyway, wherever they came from! And yes, I tried their macs since there was a branch just opposite my hotel, and a full meal cost about S$7. In contrast to paying S$10++ for a special meal here in SG :o

Ah one last thing. I blogged this trip by Parts since I had lots to say about it. But it definitely had to compete for time with other things in real-life haha, especially in 2023 so far where time has just been zooming by~ I'm quite sure my immediate next trip will be just as worthwhile as this one was, but will have to see if I can spare the time xD

With that, I sign off on the not-last trip of 2022, but one of the most significant ones for me, and look forward to what's to come!

Monday, 27 March 2023

Tokyo 2022 (Part 8~Yokohama~)

Been too busy so this took a while. This is the last location-based Part, dedicated to Yokohama where I took my second day trip out of Tokyo. There's gonna be many photos here, because the key bits have both day and night versions~

One of the things I couldn't stop taking photos of, which also ended up as my desktop wallpaper.

It was 4 Nov, the second last full trip day. I started off by being short on time, as usual haha. Due to the knock-on effects of the extra Utage show, I had to visit the Shinjuku Gyoen that same morning (chasing autumn was still high on the priorities) and only started making my way to Yokohama around 11am. Luckily, it was only about a 30-min train ride away, but that ride cost about S$5 >.<

I landed at Minatomirai station where the first priority was to find lunch. It was quite an easy decision to go for my first and only sushi meal on the trip. That was so near the end already and my to-eat list was only about 50% fulfilled... As sorely tempting as it was to order the most atas-looking (and most expensive at all of ~S$24) kaisen don which had the full works including uni, I knew I wasn't hungry enough to finish it. So I satisfied myself with an 8-piece sushi set which was tasted great and fresh and was definitely filling enough. 

First and last sushi meal of the trip. Looks like usual fare but quality-wise, it definitely beat sushi express haha.

One more thing to share. While waiting for my sushi, I became conscious that I was resting my folded arms unusually comfortably against the table. Turns out there was a sort of padded rail around the table edge, probably designed for this exact purpose :O

Also not sure if I was being a suaku, but this was the first time I'd ridden a curved escalator (in the Landmark Mall). 

Post-lunch, it was time to commence the packed itinerary. First up, some views from the Yokohama Landmark Tower! I purposely planned two visits that day to get both the day and night views, even if that meant paying the S$10 entry twice haha. 

Each visit took me a good hour at least since there were 4 viewing directions to go round. I thought it'd be fun to mirror the day and night views as closely as possible, so in the daytime I picked out landmarks for easy framing references. The results were not bad! It was just a little more difficult to capture the night views properly thanks to the glare from the well-lit viewing decks.

Here are 8 shots from the 4 faces at 2 times of day:

Northeast (day): This was the first view upon coming out of the elevator. Beautiful, clear view of the harbour, but what caught my eye was the spark of colour from the amusement park and I made sure to walk through it later on.

Northeast (night): This time, it was the ferris wheel that took centre stage. Probably my favourite view out of the set of 8.

Southeast (day): Noticed some golden wispy things floating in the bay, but no idea what those were.

Southeast (night).

Southwest (day): Mt Fuji was supposed to be somewhere out there in this direction. But no matter how hard I stared into the distance, it was justtt a little too cloudy for it to appear. Seems like as much as it was a bright, sunny day, the individual wisps of cloud still added up. 

Southwest (night): The glare was particularly bad at this face coz this was where the lounge for hanging out and enjoying the view with drinks was at. So I didn't try to hard and went to get myself a drink too haha.

Northwest (day): Idk why but this view felt like a screenshot from a world-building game.

Northwest (night).

After my afternoon hour at the Landmark Tower (no visitation time limits but I had to move on), it was time to quick-march over to the Cup Noodles Museum. The thing I really liked about Yokohama was how nicely the attractions lined up near the waterfront. It was so easy to plot a route, even from looking at the map for the first time.

And what a good day it was for walking! I got to cut through the colourful amusement park as seen from the viewing deck and hit the waterfront. 

Along the colourful route towards the seafront. 

I found out upon arrival that the Cup Noodles Museum was targeted at kids, and there were manyyy kids there on that day. So it was rather noisy and joining any special activities like designing my own cup noodles meant queuing up behind a few busloads of kids. I decided I wasn't hard up about it and simply took a walk through the exhibition, which I thought were quite well-designed. 

Basically, the development history of the modern-day cup noodle was spun into a motivational, kid-friendly story about bringing bright ideas to life. Must say that (1) I wasn't aware that there was so much behind it and (2) it was the perfect example of showcasing one's own achievements hahaha. Aside from the whole development story, there were a bunch of interactive exhibits that kept me amused for a while, nudging stuff on the walls to activate projections. 

One of the walls in the famous room displaying cup noodles through the ages. Aji-no-moto in different forms lol.

And here's Colonel Sanders of the cup noodles world!

Well, cup noodles definitely ranks high up there in the list of successful innovations haha. Best thing since sliced bread? At the end of the exhibits, there was a food court specifically serving noodle dishes of different nationalities, including laksa (from Malaysia :}). It's a good thing I didn't attempt to eat there though, would never have been able to get a seat in that crowd.

Anyway I was aiming to get to the next destination latest 3.30pm, so back out into the sun it was. The sunshine was pretty powerful in that almost cloudless day, but the sea breeze balanced it out perfectly. It wasn't bitingly cold (yet), as I experienced in my last visit to an overseas port city (Incheon). But I thought it was a good plan to use my double layered north face jacket on this day. The denim would've been fine for that sunny afternoon, but severely insufficient later on.

Ahh those wide spaces~ The waterfront walk was the sense of freedom embodied - I really love doing these things!

From the museum, the route covered the Red Brick Warehouse (unfortunately not open for biz while I was there), Zou-no-Hana Park and Yamashita Park. It was almost an hour-long walk with quite a few stops for admiring the blue/green views (graced by ships, submarines and flowers) and just standing and savouring the rushing wind like Pocahontas. There were many many other people out and about too - always a sign of a great day!

The viewers.

The view.

Got to catch some more autumn views at the end of Yamashita Park before entering the Gundam Factory.

I arrived well on schedule at my main attraction of the day - the Gundam Factory Yokohama! This schedule was also built around sunset (at the convenient timing of ~4.50pm), as an extension from the online tip for Shibuya Sky. I'd pre-booked my tickets (including the Dock experience that was sold separately) and was so enthralled once I went in that I only stepped out 4h later, well into the night xD

Was brimming with excitement at this point! This was one of the destinations I'd make special effort to visit, such as Leavesden Studios in London. No regrets at all.

Omg there it was! Shortly after I entered, a performance started, so I got to see the RX-78F00 kneel into an anguished pose.

After the headless Unicorn at Odaiba, this was my last chance in the trip to see a (whole) full-sized Gundam. The RX-78F00 Gundam at Yokohama delivered and was impressive wayyy beyond expectations! This was one of the days when I bothered to share instastories and received quite a few responses along the lines of "wait, it moves?!" xD That was indeed the special thing about this particular full-sized model, which made me extra keen to visit.

In fact, it was a choice between this or visiting the Kirin Brewery Yokohama Factory (due to clashes in availability) and it was one of the easiest decisions ever. Importantly, this Gundam Factory is meant to be a temporary installation. But it recently got extended to Mar 2024 due to popular demand. In any case, I even set reminders to standby and purchase tickets once they became available about half a month in advance. But seeing the Gundam in real-life was really on another level.

Standard standby position to "receive repairs" in between performances hahaha.

One key attraction at the Factory was the Dock, sort of a life-sized replica of a repair station. So it offered a great view of the Gundam at two levels (near the head and the waist) and drove home how massive and yet precise an effort it was to create this moving robot. From there, we could observe so many details, from the huge motors moving the arm and leg joints to the armour decals. 

Behind the glass, right next to the Gundam head! Close enough to read some of the words which said things like "check before and after combat" and "manual release". The attention to detail!

This was goosebumps inducing, especially when the eyes lit up.

Finishing off with the signature pose.

Adding on some details on my Dock experience for posterity. My slot was at 4.05pm (separate ticket required). The wind really started to pick up around that time and the clouds had rolled in. I'd already put on my windproof layer by that point (started feeling it over tea break), and ended up zipping it all the way up while waiting in the queue to take the lift in batches. One of my fellow visitors had only a sweater on, and the poor guy had his hands in pockets all the way through. I think there were about 40 pax per slot, so we were herded in batches round the different view points. This included kneeling/squatting in front of the glass if in the front row and shuffling around in a queue so that everyone would get to experience almost the exact same views (though the Gundam itself might be in a different position). Very systemically Japanese. 

Even the exhibit areas surrounding the Gundam were impressively detailed and in English at that. It definitely helped complete the illusion that the Dock was a high-risk work area. I was quite tickled to see them use the Gundam footprints to mark the standing areas haha. 

It was getting dark after I got off the Dock, and I stayed the rest of the time mainly to catch the night performances. The performances were a large part of the attraction anyway - movements, sound effects and lightshow after dark. I found the schedule on the official site (Japanese version only - after some hard searching) and planned my visit to capture all 4 versions, including both day and night views where possible. The movements were not fast by any means (definitely not like in the anime hahaha), but the sheer 18m scale was what made it sooo impressive. And between day and night, I felt that the impact really went up a notch after dark.

Case in point.

Case in point 2, this eerie look. Gundams are machines of war after all. In fiction, thankfully.

And then add on the familiarity of the music and voice acting mashup from various series... wow it was nostalgic. Gundam series have good music in general, at least out of the pool of animes I used to watch. When paired with the movements and lightshow, it was pure magic. I alternated between taking videos and watching in awe. Below are two very iconic sequences (sped up).

(Sped up 4x) Ok looking at this sequence in normal speed reminds me of my own sometimes creaky knees. But then again, forgiven since its an 18m-tall, multi-tonne robot.

(Sped up 2x) Love how the lights flashed white when the finger was fully extended.

The end-position: all systems green. At night, the eye colour change was very obvious.

Can't forget the merch! In between marveling at the Gundam, I zipped around the other attractions on site i.e. the Gundam Cafe, Base and Academy. I'd gone there with a list of things I wanted to buy... and actually bought them all and a bit more (in the Cafe and the Base) hahaha. 

One of the things I'd set my sights on was the Haro bottle. It's cute and perfect size for a small bag but unfortunately the cap seal seems leaky :/ Ordered the cheesy hotdog set along with it since it looked decent and I was hungry at teatime, and parked myself at a good position to eat and watch the Gundam some more haha.

Not part of the things I was originally eyeing, but ultimately couldn't resist revisiting the Cafe to get the pudding just for the glass cup haha (the pudding was just a pudding).

Along the way, I managed to educate myself a little in the Academy which was an exhibit dedicated to the creation of the moving Gundam. Not surprisingly, many Japanese heavy industry companies were involved. It feels like this would be a dream project to work in for engineers!

One thing I noticed about the RX-78F00 was that it had a sharper and less blocky/cartoonish look than the original Gundam and seemed more similar to the Strike Gundam overall. Turns out, it was a real design choice to make it "evoke the image of a fearless athlete"!

I wasn't actually planning to stay till that late, but I just couldn't pull myself away until the end of the final performance of the day. By then, I'd already withstood the cold wind on full blast for some time, and my large plastic bag full of Haropla was getting hard to control xD There was a reason the bag was so large. While I was definitely eyeing the Haropla sets (unique to this Gundam Base), I wasn't originally planning to buy all 7 colours xD However, they had a system of allowing only one check out per customer... So there was only one chance to purchase and I refused to regret anything while on holiday haha. That night, it took some creative reshuffling to fit all 7 (really light but bulky) boxes into my luggage xD

It was too easy to spend money in Japan haha. The large surface area and lightness of this bag made it a real runaway risk in the buffeting wind.

At ~7.30pm, eyes and nose watering from the wind, I bid farewell to the amazing moving Gundam and popped over to Yokohama Chinatown since it was almost just next door on the tourist trail. One more parallel to my Incheon tour - another port city with a famous Chinatown. This Chinatown felt somewhat like the one in London, medium-sized streets lined with food stores on both sides. But somehow, despite the wide world of Chinese food, most of them seemed to be selling varieties of dumplings and xiaolongbao. Wasn't keen for that, so I returned to Tokyo later on for some more conbini food haha.

Before that, I made my last stop back at the Landmark Tower. It was about just as crowded as in the afternoon, but this time with adults rather than kids on excursion haha. I went round for the night shots. Then seeing as the lounge had opened, got myself a beer and sat down (behind the couples in their plush pre-booked sofas) to enjoy the view and rest my legs - the schedule since morning was rather hectic after all.

Close to 9pm and I was still out in another city with a beer haha. Not usual for me, but Japan was safe and reliable enough.

I'd wanted to wrap up the Tokyo saga by Mar, but life (or more like work) just had to get in the way. Just 1 or 2 Parts (I haven't decided) to go. Either way, Part 9 will feature a combination of some of my favourite activities!


Sunday, 12 February 2023

Tokyo 2022 (Part 7~🍁Utage🍂~)

Finally, the trip anchor. And in lucky Part 7 at that! Essentially, it was the very reason that I got to run about Tokyo doing and seeing all sorts of things in that beautiful autumn week. My autumn trip, built around an autumn concert. That concert was "SUPER JUNIOR - RYEOWOOK Special Live~秋宴~UTAGE", or in short, Utage. 

The simple but stunning autumn-themed stage.

Of all the overseas concerts/performances I attended in 2022, this one was special because of the effort it took to get there and all the help received and friendliness experienced along the way. And of course, the sheer quality of the performance itself. Fair warning: this post will cover events, processes and observations surrounding the concert so there are many many words and few photos hahaha. I guess this mighttt be a little boring to the external reader but hey, I'm my main audience ^^

Opportunity

Rewind to one fine day in Aug 2022, just a few days after my birthday (when a friend floated the idea of a Japan trip). While there was some attraction to the idea of a Tokyo holiday since it'd be a first, I was still feeling rather indifferent. Guess I wasn't dying to chiong to Japan the moment it reopened. But on that day, there was suddenly an announcement on the SJ JP twitter regarding a "Ryeowook Special Live" and that the ticketing lottery would begin on that day itself. The announcement came out of the blue and was somewhat low key, but it was electrifying

It's like something was coolly saying to me: "so, you needed a reason to go?"

And indeed, a reason it was. Ryeowook is my current favourite Suju member. If buying tickets were as simple as clicking and paying, I'd have done that in a heartbeat. But there were a few more hoops to jump through. In a way, things would've been so much easier if the concert were held in Seoul but no complaints about the chance to visit another location xD

Securing tickets

So this section wouldn't have existed if ticketing were the usual fastest fingers first. Maybe it's just coz I noob, but I gotta emphasise how difficult it felt to consume Japanese products or services from outside Japan, especially if there was no specific international option. I kinda had to bash my way through an end-to-end process designed to prevent ticket scalping/unauthorised distribution and err, promote equality (?). 

Quirk #1 (few more to come later) about Japanese concerts is the aforementioned lottery system. Basically one applies and hopes to get a ticket. How easy it is to score a seat is demand-dependent. Lotteries may open in a few stages with the first usually reserved for official fan club members. There might be general sales if there's anything left at the end.

Anyway, I couldn't apply for anything haha. The first lottery was for ELF-Japan members (the official Japanese SJ fan club). Signing up for the fan club required a Japanese address and phone number. This in itself doesn't prevent foreigners from signing up, but I had no handy contacts in Japan. So I waited for the second round... and found that it was also a lottery that required a Japanese address and phone number -.- At that time I started to wonder if the system was designed to keep foreigners out or smth. 

Then, I spotted signs on other ways that foreigners could secure tickets! Some request/let (求/讓) listings had started to pop up under certain hashtags. The reason for this was that each person was allowed to apply for up to 4 seats in the lottery for each of the 3 show timings. People usually applied together with friends and were trying to sell off their duplicates. Cue reaching out to strangers online~

So yay there were tickets that I could actually purchase! But in parallel, I'd hit another roadblock in the form of Anypass, the official ticket distribution platform. Basically, this app was a must for entry into the concert with tickets purchased online. To prevent unauthorised distribution etc., any sort of ticket transfer between different parties has to be done on this app where every account is verified and tagged to a valid phone number (thankfully, international numbers work too). And then there was me having trouble signing up xD I thought it was gonna be a dealbreaker, coz all the verification SMSes and calls seemed to be failing, until I tried topping up my international credits out of desperation. Good thing that that worked, and that I could understand Japanese numbers enough to listen to and type in a verification code after the call went through!

By that time, I was already in various conversations with international strangers. This included some who had successfully completed the ticketing process and were kind enough to guide me through the weird complexities. As luck would have it, I also spoke to an angel of a Japanese ELF who (1) knew Chinese (简体字, luckily) and (2) pretty much voluntarily become my ticket coordinator for this concert :') She liaised with other Japanese sellers on my behalf to secure tickets for the 2 evening shows I was planning to go for. This was one of the reasons I was bursting with gratitude by the end of the trip. Gotta mention that I had to rely on google/papago translators for all the Japanese... and also the written Chinese... it's been too long xD Along the way, I picked up a Singaporean buddy as well!

All in all, I made friends (or contacts, at the very least)! It helps to have a clear common interest, in this case, in a Korean boy group haha).  

When I secured my Utage tickets, Tokyo 2022 sparked into existence✨

Waiting

Gotta say, there had to be some mutual trust since I was buying tickets off strangers - both parties had to show up for the deal to work out. But it was less of a risk for me since the agreement was to pay cash at the concert venue, after the tickets were handed over digitally. At that time (early Sep), there wasn't even 100% certainty that I could show up in Japan haha. I'd heard of other cases where sellers were reluctant to hold on to their tickets for foreigners instead of releasing them back into the system. Not unreasonable really. Can say I was very lucky to meet J-ELFs who were trustworthy and so ready to help/sell to me without asking for upfront payment. 

The next thing I did was to book a hotel for the entire week surrounding 2-3 Nov. Free cancellation, yay! Then, came a week's worth of checking the news obsessively for every announcement surrounding Japan and monitoring flight prices. The prices climbed steadily the whole time and I could actually have saved a bunch more if I were a little more decisive haha. Thinking about it, the $25 Scoot multiflex was such a gem. That price bought unlimited flight reschedules in the event that Japan did not fully open in time. If not for that, risk-averse me might have indeed waited to opening announcement day and paid double. The lesson here is to spot worthwhile hedges and leverage them as early as possible. 

Fast forwarding~ I had plenty of fun pre-Utage (see Parts 2-6 haha). But there was also an undercurrent of uncertainty. When South Korea went into mourning after the Itaewon incident, there was some doubt on whether the concert would carry on. The daily teaser posts had stopped. Other Korean performers also cancelled their own events in Japan at last minute. Well, nothing to be done then but to wait patiently. Still, I was determined to ensure that Tokyo 2022 would be a fulfilling holiday, even without the anchor event. In the end, there was some confirmation that the concert would carry on as planned and it was such a relief to finally head to the Tachikawa Stage Garden on 2 Nov. One more reason to be thankful that the concert was held in Tokyo rather than Seoul.

At gloaming while waiting to enter, standing along this little pathway lined with red trees. Remember, trees across Tokyo were just starting to turn red at that time. So it felt like there was a concentration of autumn around the venue, befitting of an event titled 秋宴 - literally autumn party/feast!

Show time!

I had to think of what to write here since no form of recording, AV or written, can recreate the experience of a live performance. The best I can do is to share some of my favourite bits. It's also quite serendipitous that the concert recording was broadcasted just around the time I started drafting this post. So I got to polish my memories~ 

View from my seat during the first performance (2 Nov, evening)! Considering that seating was completely random (more on this later), it was great fortune to be seated close enough to make out Ryeowook's jawbones haha.

Despite not generally being an aesthetic/design-minded person, my first thought upon entry to the concert hall was literally "this is beautiful". In a few ways in fact. First, the stage and backdrop graced by a (fake) tree dressed in autumn. It wasn't an overly showy concept or anything, it was simply fitting. Second, the official concert logo on 2 screens flanking the tree. In promotional materials, the still logo was set on a white background. In the hall, this was changed to a black background which emphasised the red and gold motifs, which were also animated to glow. Third, the animation of glowing, red maple leaves falling across the logo gave a very elegant 3D effect. Last but certainly not the least, the "waiting" music. I don't usually care much for piano music but this piece completed the picture of entering a lush, tranquil autumn wood. I was in a state of bliss while waiting for the show to start for the first time.

Even through the lousy GIF quality, the glowing, twirling 🍁 remain outstanding.

As for the performance, the whole damn thing was magical. There was a great variety of Ryeowook's own songs in both Korean and Japanese and covers. Here's some of my favourites:

- Like a Star: The single most beautiful set.  Thinking about it, this was prob the only song with additional stage setup. Strings of lights were used to create the impression of a twinkling, starry field in a deep night ⭐

Screenshot from the official recording. Watching live, it was an amazingly ethereal view that produced goosebumps.

- Citrus (by Da-Ice): Impact. The stage was dark and silent when Ryeowook opened the song with a sky-piercing high note and sang the first bit a capella. Total chills. Unfortunately the official recording did not include this song due to copyright, so here's an (ahem) unofficial version

- Nandemonaiya (by Radwimps): Yes it's that song from Your Name! His voice suits this song very well and he actually covered it on his youtube channel before. At the concert, the cherry on top was the live band. For a song I've listened to many times (original and cover), this was a definite way to level up the experience. Again, unofficial version.

- Dance time! (a medley of Edison by Wednesday Campanella, Habit by Sekai no Owari, Mr Simple, SPY and Oppa Oppa): Wow where to start. As much as I appreciate power vocals, it's always the upbeat songs that are the most enjoyable during concerts! The first two were trendy Japanese songs. It was very impressive that he sang and danced all the way through without stumbling, especially Habit which was almost a rap :o Then we were treated to a mini Super Show including the legendary SPY! It was an OMG moment for everyone when the iconic trumpet sound played at the start coz Suju is notoriously allergic to performing this song hahaha. And there was Ryeowook performing a snippet of the original version all by himself xD

- Sakura no Hana ga Sakukoro: This was the first encore song and one of my favourite types of music. It's not as common to get goosebumps from a happy, uplifting song compared to those soaring ballads, but it happened here on all 3 shows. It was a nice touch to have confetti burst out at the final chorus as well! I managed to collect some when I was seated close enough :D Oh yes and the tree changed colours temporarily to pink since this song was spring-themed. Then Ryeowook snapped his fingers and it went back to red xD

Another capture from the recording. More falling, floating, glowing motifs back on the screen! But sakura petals instead as we rewinded to spring for a bit.

- My Dear: This was the final encore song for the first two shows. It's also my current favourite out of Ryeowook's solo works and top of my spotify top songs for 2022! Was especially glad to hear this one live :') It's one of those songs that "fits my ear" easily, with the same smooth comforting feeling as chinese ballads from the school days. 

Special mentions:

- To Me (first show): The concert wasn't CD-perfect. There were times when emotions overflowed, and this particular stage was prob the most affected coz he choked up and couldn't sing most of the song. But it happens that the lyrics of this song speak of personal strength and conviction. At the end of the show, the people who were already on their way out rushed back to their seats when the lights dimmed again and the band retook their positions. Ryeowook walked out again and thanked the band for agreeing to do this extra stage, coz if he didn't do this, he wouldn't have been able to sleep that night haha. And he nailed it. 

- The Little Prince (final show): This song appeared only once in Utage, at the very end of the final show. Before the concert, I'd assumed that Ryeowook's solo debut, signature song would naturally be part of the setlist. I guess all the other stages were stunning enough to hold their own that I didn't even realise its absence. He's prob performed this song hundreds of times by now, but it was my first and only time so far hearing it live. And he said he prepared this special stage coz, even though there were two other planned stops in Japan, he didn't take being able to meet his audience for granted. I appreciated this consideration. This song and the title were meant for him, and for me, this was a very fitting end to a masterpiece of a concert.

I wanted to retain as much memory of this concert as possible. That included finding the best way to make a souvenir out of the red/gold confetti from the encores!

Everything else that was interesting

I'm not done yet hahaha! There really were so many things worth remembering from the 1.5 days I spent in Tachikawa. 

First up, during pre-trip planning, practical me had decided to go for just the two evening shows on 2 and 3 Nov, leaving the daytimes free for exploration. "Should be good enough", I thought... I ended up going for all 3 performances, including the 3 Nov matinee which was never part of the original plan. After the first show, SG buddy and I congregated outside the hall in a very excited state and decided then and there that we weren't gonna miss a single thing xD It was THAT good. 

The fun didn't end there. The Tachikawa Stage Garden is a small, intimate concert venue and I was blessed to get decent views throughout, i.e. no third floor seats. But my seat during the matinee performance was by far the best and closest to the stage. For an unplanned thing, it really paid off big time!

This is probably a good juncture to mention Quirk #2 - the random seating. What we're prob used to is variable ticket pricing depending on section. But Japanese concerts seem to have only 1 price for small venues or maybe a premium/regular split for larger venues. So depending on luck, the same ticket could literally yield a seat right in front of the stage or at some ulu corner of the hall. On top of this, the seat designations are only released very close to the performance day. I guess this is all to prevent snatching and scalping of good seats in advance - everyone gets equal chance at being lucky or unlucky xD

Back to the unplanned matinee show, for which tickets were completely sold out online :O The attendance throughout the 3 shows was really good with hardly any empty seats. But for the matinee, there weren't even people reselling tickets anymore. Could be because it was on a public holiday. That's why I found it very strange that there was an announcement that morning saying that same-day tickets (当日券) would be on sale at the venue... We were definitely taking the chance anyway. So SG buddy and I got there and joined the line where we had a rather nerve-wracking wait as a stack of tickets was used up just before our turn. We surmised that there were still some left, since the Japanese staff kept speaking over their walkie-talkies and going up and down to count the people in line. Couldn't understand a thing, but they were prob seeking confirmation before releasing another batch of tickets. And knowing Japanese culture, they prob would've had the politeness to dismiss everyone if the tickets had really run out. True enough, the staff eventually pulled out a fresh stack! We paid in cash - 230000 yen cobbled between the two of us. (Youtrip the rest of the way!) 

Outside the venue, marveling at our unbelievable luck. In an era of e-ticketing, especially within a hyper-streamlined Japanese system, this was like a unique piece of treasure.

Here, I need to emphasise how precious a souvenir that pink slip of paper was. Since the regular ticketing channels were all online, this was probably the only way to get a physical ticket! However, the best surprise came when I saw the seat numbers. Rows 13 and 14 - prob as close as we commoners could've hoped to get to the stage! We were totally expecting to be seated somewhere far and high up given the last-minuteness of it all. One plausible explanation could be that these tickets were reserved for invited parties who didn't show up in the end. In any case, I was beyond thankful hehe. The matinee ended up being the single largest impact to my itinerary, bumping a few plans away >.< Should've expected this really, what was I thinking xD

My best view out of the 3 shows! From my live show experiences so far, it can sometimes be a risk to sit close to stage where there is little or no gradient. I was fortunate enough not to be behind tall people, and was actually seated next to a camera haha.

I can say with conviction: no regrets at all going for all 3 shows. Just one last Quirk to share over here. It's a standard thing for photography and video recording to be disallowed or restricted during concerts. But Quirk #3 is that Japanese fans don't break the rules. This is why it is extremely rare for Japanese concerts to have fancams, and the ones I've seen were taken exclusively by foreign fans. Official DVDs/broadcast recordings cover only one performance at best, and not everything at that (as demonstrated in this case). No two live performances are the same. So the only way to experience all of it is simply to be there. I'm very glad I was for Utage.

Personally, I wasn't about to risk video recording though... My phone was hardly equipped for this task anyway. But I did manage to get myself some nice, fairly clear audio recordings which I listened to all through the flight home. 

Oh yes, should also mention that due to covid restrictions at the time, cheering and screaming wasn't allowed :( Only clapping. It definitely dampened the atmosphere since the bulk of the audience consisted of Japanese fans who don't break the rules. Little bursts of sound escaped the audience whenever Ryeowook did something unexpectedly cute or emotional but that was about it. The next time the Sujus perform in Japan (SS9 in Mar), covid should be well on its way to insignificance (touch wood), and hopefully they will be able to hear the full strength of the crowd without restrictions.

In conclusion

Ryeowook really shone in Utage. There was nothing stopping me from being there, so this was a concert that I wouldn't have missed for the world. He went on to do two further winter-themed concerts (Rokka ~六花~) in Osaka and Fukuoka around Christmas time, with modified setlists from Utage. Of course I was tempted. But as much as I would've liked to be there and hear those amazing live vocals again, it was the season for enjoying real life around family and friends, not to escape from it! Anyway, the flight prices in Dec were extremely prohibitive haha. It was also fortunate that more foreign fans were able to attend by that time, and there was a healthy supply of Rokka fancams xD

I guess I really like live music and it's something I'm prepared to spend money on. Unfortunately, Singapore is a non-existent stop for these Suju solo/subunit concerts. So if I want to experience them, I'll have to travel for it. My experiences in 2022 (Fan Letter, SS9s, Utage) have proven more than worthy! So this is something I'll continue doing for as long as I'm able to and as long as the singers I like continue performing. Still waiting to see what surprise announcements come up next heh.

But wew 2023, it's been so busy so far so writing time has definitely been squeezed. This Part went on longer than expected as well haha. Part 8 up next, going back to the regular travel itinerary and another of my favourite locations on the trip!

Hopefully I'll have the opportunity to see this giraffe again in future, maybe dressed for another season :)